Basic make-up techniques

CTM & Basic Make-up Techniques

Ø  When performing a CTM on a client who is sitting in a chair, ensure that it is adjusted to the lowest position so that you can comfortably reach them from behind

Ø  Cleanse – use damp cotton pads to remove all traces of dirt, dust and grease. Use an eye make-up remover on the eyes

Ø  Tone – use damp cotton pads to apply toner to close the pores

Ø  Moisturise – use a barrier cream to protect the skin from make-up and the elements. For heavy make-up applications use an under make-up base

Ø  Primer – an optional products which evens out the skin providing a smoother surface for make-up

Ø  Afterwards adjust the chair to highest position for make-up

Basic make-up Techniques

—  Apply a colour corrector to any areas that require adequate concealing prior to foundation

—  Test the foundation colour on the client’s jaw-line to find the perfect match

—  Mix enough of the foundation colours together and apply to the face and jaw-line using either a latex wedge, a foundation brush or a stippling brush

—  Apply concealer to any areas that need attention

—  Set the foundation with a translucent face powder using either a velour puff of a large brush

Colour Correctors

—  Colour correctors are used to conceal blemishes, high colour and sallowness and can be found in sticks, creams or powders.  Colour concealing is used prior to foundation, and is normally applied using a make-up sponge or brush. 

—  It is usual to correct colour such as ruddy cheeks, dark circles under the eyes, blemishes, high colouring and broken capillaries.

—  Skin correctors have the addition of a coloured pigment used to correct the above conditions

—  Green correctors cancel out red, so are ideal for toning down ruddy cheeks or high colour, or to conceal tiny broken blood vessels. Use lightly and only apply to the areas that need it as too much can give a greyish tinge to the skin

—  Lilac correctors give a boost to yellow skin under tones, particularly olive types.  Used sparingly, it can be used all over the face to give a youthful glow

—  Blue correctors do for pale and wintery looking skin what lilac does for olive skin, giving it a more radiant look. Apply sparingly to the areas of the face that catch the light most readily

—  Pink correctors work best under the eyes.  It helps add a youthful glow and softens dark
areas.

—  Yellow correctors  work well for dark eye circles and any areas that need lightening. This
corrector is also good for camouflaging tattoos

Foundations

Before any artist can start work they need a clean and smooth canvas to work from.

Think of your base work (foundation and powder) as your canvas. You most certainly wouldn’t want to paint a picture on a dirty and rough piece of paper.

The face that you are going to apply a variety of colour onto, in the way of eyeshadows, blush and lipstick, needs to be prepared properly in order to make your creative masterpiece work.

Preparation of your canvas is vitally important for the result of your painting!!

—  Foundations are applied to even out the skin tone to produce a flawless finish

—  Foundations will provide a canvas for all subsequent products. Without foundation, other cosmetics will simply melt away and disappear over a very short time

—  Foundations will help to protect the skin from the environment, especially those with SPF included

—  Foundation can be a applied in a number of ways and each method has certain benefits

1.       Fingers – must be sanitised and have client’s consent

2.       Sponge or  latex wedge – check for allergies. Most hygienic

3.       Brush – gives even and consistent results

4.       Stippling Brush – great blending results

—  Liquid – Oil free. Suitable for normal and combination skins. Liquid matt is available for oily skin. Gives a light covering reflecting a flesh impact. Has a high water contect (water in oil)

—  Cream – Suitable for most skin type, but better for dry skins. Has a medium coverage with a thicker texture. High oil content (oil in water)

—  Mousse – Suitable for all skin types. Has a light coverage producing a natural finish. Can be oil or water based.

—  Tinted Gels – Suitable for young skins which only require a light coverage. Provides a very sheer coverage. Gels can cause dryness on sensitive skins. Water-based gel

—  HD – Gives a smooth texture with buildable coverage. Blends to a flawless opaque finish. Usually contains silicone and strong pigment

Concealers

—  These are superfine, translucent formulations with high-tech ingredients which provide long lasting coverage

—  Commercially they are available in shades of light, medium and dark, however professional supplies are available in a wide range of colour choices to suit all skin tones

—  Their job is to correct slight shadows and blemishes giving the illusion of perfect skin.

Powders

—  Face Powders are used to ‘set’ the foundation to prevent it from slipping off the face, increasing longevity.

—  Face Powders will help to reduce shine. This is especially important for a client working under studio lighting

—  They should feel silky to the touch and have a very light consistency

—  Quite a few of face powders have light-reflecting particles which help to minimise imperfections on the skins surface

—  Face Powders are applied using a soft brush or velour powder puff

There are two types of face powder Loose and Pressed

—  Translucent – will allow the colour of the foundation to show through the slightly pigmented formula

—  Colourless (transparent/white) – has no pigments so it will therefore not change the colour of the foundation

—  Tinted – should match the colour of the foundation exactly

—  Bronzing – used to give a healthy sun-kissed look

Note – if you work is to be photographed avoid powder with titanium dioxide in it to prevent
ghosting or flash-back